Medellin Hostels/Hostals/Hostals

It seems like every month or so we hear about another new Medellin Hostel opening, many of which are located in and around the El Poblado section of town. There is further evidence of the increased number of backpackers one can see roaming the streets, eating in the local restaurants and partying in the local bars. I overheard two locals commenting the other day, “It’s no longer Parque Lleras, it’s parque backpackers”

We are not here to discuss the good or the bad of this phenomenon but I can attest that Medellin must be on somebodys map as a backpacker haven because the area is full of backpackers and Backpacker hostels.

A friend recently became the manager of one of the newer Hostals in town and asked me to stop by for a visit. I was expecting the typical cramped Hostel environment with some private, semi private and dormitory style accommodations as well as other standard amenities of computer access, kitchen, gaming area etc.

My imagination never prepared me for what I was about to encounter at the newly opened Ram Hostal. From the street, it looks like any other El Poblado house turned hostal but when you walk in it almost becomes sensory overload.

To begin with, the reception area is huge as are the adjoining rooms that appear to be a kitchen and lounge area. It wasn’t until I walked through the back doors that the full impact of it’s size hit me.

“Wow” is all I could say followed by, “Its like being at a finca in the city” For those of you that don’t know that term, many locals have large weekend family farms/finca that are more like country homes. Huge homes that can accommodate many people on large plots of land with lots of recreation and plenty of places to party. Family and friends gather to celebrate holidays, weekends, birthdays or just to party out in the country where no one can be distrubed or bothered.

I was first shown to the executive accommodations. These are 2 private rooms with private baths, Jacuzzis, plasma screen TV’s, large Queen beds and very tasteful decorations. At 100,000 COP per night (about $50 USD) with breakfast included, these would be hard to pass on for the discerning traveler but out of the budget ranges of many budget travelers.

Next I was shown two private rooms with ensuite baths and two private rooms with shared bathroom facilities. These rooms ranged from 70K to 50K per night.

Next were two dormitory style rooms that shared bathrooms. One held about 18 beds while the other must have had 30 beds in it (they are planning to separate the large dorm into two dorms)

I saw the large outdoor kitchen/bar area, pool, sunning area, computer room, game room and just walked on an on around the property. Shared laundry facilities, two large continuous flow hot water heaters and it seemed to never end. Dorms at 20,000COP (about $10 USD per night with breakfast included), guest friendly environment for an extra $5 for breakfast, ping pong table, planned salsa lessons in the main house….well, it was just an amazing experience.

Now, besides the facilities and quality of the accommodations, what really sets this place apart from other local hostels is it’s location. It is right behind the Pamona grocery store on Av. Poblado. That’s right, less that 1/2 block to a major gorcery store, 2 blocks to the Metro, 2 blocks to Exito, 3 blocks to the heart of Parque Lleras, a 5 minute cab ride to El Centro, a 3 minute cab ride to Oviedo Mall, walking diatance to many of the Parque Lleras Discos like Red, Blue, Acropolis, Sam Pues and of course the great restaurants and bars of Parque Lleras.

They are still working out the kinks and finalizing their web site but the staff is highly trained in Hostal management as they have all had prior experience working in one or more of the other local hostels (and most of them speak excellent English).

We think this place is going to be very popular and a hit with the youth Hostal/Backpacking crowds that are making Medellin Colombia one of their primary spots to visit.

To see more of this idyllic location, visit www.medellinhostels.com You will find some photos posted and expect to see more to come soon. You can also make reservations through the web site until the Ram has their web site published.

The bar for Medellin Hostals has just been raised another notch with the new Ram Hostal in Medellin Colombia.

With Los Alumbrados in Medellin Colombia almost upon us

Well, the mayors office promised the most spectacular Los Alumbrados (Christmas Lighting) in Medellins history and I believe he has lived up to his promise.

Even though the formal lighting does not take place until Novmber 30th (or some say next Saturday), they have been making “test runs” on a couple of evenings and I can tell you, it is nothing short of spectacular. We even had a chance to view it from a look out point up on Las Palmas going towards the airport one evening.

Now, not to be outdone, Pueblito Paisa always has a very nice display as well and take advantage of their high point in the city to draw attention to their efforts. They also had a “test run” the other night and I can attest to the fact they too have gone all out for this years Los Alumbrados.

Hopefully, you will have a chance to see this years spectacle or will plan to attend one in the future. I am planning to do a video of this years Christmas lighting and will post a link to You Tube after editing.

Monday night officially starts the Christmas season in Medellin and at midnight, the skies will fill with fireworks all over the valley. Any high up vantage point will make it worth staying up for….but plan to be awake most of the night from the noise….!

Using a credit card in Colombia

Many places in Colombia accept credit cards for purchases, meals, groceries and many other things.  Several places will only accept Visa or Master Card and many times, they will add on 3-4% for using the card (even though it is against Visa and MC rules)

 

Many places will only accept a Ban Colombia Visa or Debit card.

 

One thing that is consistent with credit cards.  They will always ask you, “cuantas cuotas”.  They are asking you how many payments you want to make.  Most visitors do not understand this phenomenon so merely respond, “una”. then pay your credit card company as you normally do each month

You can probably leave your AMEX at home unless you want to pay your hotel bill or purchase airline tickets.  Many places will not accept AMEX.

Travel safe and only carry one credit card and one debit card.  Use ATM’s for what cash you will need on a daily basis (much cheaper than changing money at cambios).

 

Never let your credit card out of your site.  They will bring a machine to your table for purchasing your meals.

 

MTG

Halloween in Medellin-Mangos

In Spain and Mexico, October 31st is regarded as Day of the Dead.  In Colombia, Day of the Dead is celebrated on Nov. 30th.  On October 31st, the Paisas turn out in their finest (and sometimes very elaborate) costumes and party the night away….well, actually, they start partying on October 30th and usually don’t stop until the AM of Nov. 1st.

“So, what do you want to do for Halloween?” I asked my lovely wife!  “Let’s go toMangos”, was her reply!

Now, I am not a big Mangos fan.  I believe it is a place for everyone to experience at least once when they visit Medellin just to say they have been there.  The locals love the place and some save for months to go there or will willingly accept an invitation if offered.  In my opinion, it is way over rated and wayyyyyy overpriced…but a fun experience none the less!

 

OK, so we need to find costumes.  We try several costume stores and although many were very original, nothing was suiting her tastes or budget.  So, off to El Centro with another couple and some pesos in our pockets.  After the first hour, my buddy and I decided to just let them shop and we would find a place to have coffee for an hour or so.

 

We parked our behinds at the Cafe Botero adjacent to the Museo de Antioquia and observed the throngs of people parading around in costumes and the costume contests taking place.  Some of these Paisas probably spent weeks custom making some of the costumes for themselves and their kids. Many were quite impresive.

We probably should have stayed home because it was 6 hours later before the girls showed up with their coveted costumes….which we could not see until that evening….LOL

 

We were supposed to meet friends outside at 9:30 so we could get inside early and reserve a table.  Not going to happen this evening.  It was more like 11 PM when we finally left.  We took a taxi because we knew we were going to be drinking and didn’t want to drive.

 

We were greeted by a line about 50 yards long and it took almost 1/2  hour to get through security and pay our 35,000 cover charge.

 

The place was packed and were we ever glad our friend had managed to get a couple of tables.  Costumes like you can not imagine and as usual, the Paisa ladies were happily showing off their god given (and many times enhanced) assets.

 

The place rocked all night and everyone was partying hearty.  At 4:00AM I went outside for a smoke break and noticed a lot of people beginning to leave.  I thought this might be a good time to call it a night but that was not going to happen.

 

At 7AM, we finally coaxed the girls into leaving but not before one last beer outside after a 1.75ML (carafe) of Auguardiente inside. (it is a local  favorite drink similar to Sambuca in taste also referrrd to as Guaro).

 

The night:

 

170,000 COP for costume and accessories (not bad)

70,000COP cover

240,000 COP for a bottle of Guaro

Taxis to and from Mangos 25,000

A Halloween memory from Mangos…priceless

 

We managed a few photos for your viewing pleasure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojBiNRF_Ais

 

MTG

 

“Why would you want to live in the jungles”

I almost fell out of my chair laughing as I explained that Medellin Colombia was a very cosmopolitan city with malls to rival any city in the US.

I play on-line poker (for play money only…for now anyway…LOL). I was chatting with another player the other day while sitting out a hand and she told me she lived in Ohio. I told her I lived in Medellin Colombia.

Her response was, “why would you want to live in the jungle”

So typical of the Hollywood stereotypical perspective that many have of cities in Colombia that I just had to laugh. I started off by telling her it was great to take my donkey and cart to the market everyday because we didn’t have refrigeration and needed to buy fresh meats and produce daily. I also told her there was no gasoline involved only grass and some occasional hay.

She became intrigued when I told her we had no electricity or running water and only had a generator to watch DVD’s on occasion.

Anothe player piped in and told me to cut the BS as he had visited MDE and knew differently.

I then invited her to visit the web site www.medellintravelguide.com to get a better feel for the quality of life here and to see what a modern city it really is.

She e-mailed me the next day that she had no idea it was such a beautiful place and so modern. Said she might even like to visit someday and were we serious about the prices for cosmetic surgery. I think she has a breast augmentation in mind.

Jungles? Yes, Colombia has lot’s of jungles but Medellin is not in one of them….!

Medellin Los Alumbrados in Preparation

This year the mayors office started very early preparing for this years Los Alumbrados.  Not many were sure why the preparations were starting in early August but it was apparent something big was hapening.

It started with the installations of huge green water drums all along the river.  The workers were hacking their way through the rocks and dirt that line the river placing these 2-5 hundred gallon water containers and submersing them below ground.  Next came the installation of all new metal support structures across the river.  This is not an unusual sight but the structures themselves were.  Mush more durable, stronger and they looked to have a plan of permanence about them.  They were being built to support something very, very heavy.  Next came the installation of tan tarp like material below the support structures.

 

My curosity was piqued so I began asking around if anybody knew what was going on with this years Los Alumbrados?  The Mayors office finally announced that this years theme was going to be a water theme and all the tanks and support structures were being erected to pump water.  He also promised that this years Los Alumbrados would be the most spectacular in history.

Having attended 4 Los Alumbrados, I find that difficult to believe but if the installations are any indication of what is to come, it will surely be a spectacle to behold.

 

Make your plans early as accommodations fill up fast and expect to pay a minimum of a 20% surcharge from the first of December until January 15th.  Oh, and bring your cameras!

52nd Annual Feria de Las Flores is in the history books

It was another excellent 10 day Feria de Las Flores in Medellin for 2009.  The weather could not have been better (well, maybe a little cooler) with sunny days and near cloudless skies, the locals and visitors turned out in record numbers to witness the many events.

Since the parades stretch out over many kilometers it is a good idea to plan in advance where you wish to view each event.  Location, location, location cannot be stressed enough and the locals all have their favorite viewing venues.  No mater where you go, expect crowds 5-10 deep lining the roads along the parade routes.

A friend at First American Realty Medellin hosted a party for Cabalgata with a covered tent, food, drinks, seating and a good location along the parade route.  The location was secured the night before with people actually sleeping there amongst the roped off area. You tube video of cabalgata: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwQJw_tliyQ

The Desfile de Silliteros was another hit this year with over 260 Flower Carriers participating along with numerous bands, dance troupes and entertainers.

We also had a primo location along Ave. 70 for the antique auto parade.  Some very impressive restored antique and classic autos participated.  Lots of muscle cars from the 50’s and 60’s and many of the participants dressed in period clothing of the auto they were driving. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ7TGPE__C4

On the final Sunday, we accidentally got to watch the Chiva Parade as we got stuck in traffic in a taxi.  Next year, we will plan to attend this part of the festivities.  It looked like a lot of fun.

 

So, now what to do after the largest annual event in Medellin comes to a close?  Well, here it is, Mid August and they have already started installing the support structures for Los Alumbrados (the annual Christmas lighting) along the river.  It does appear that they are installing some more somewhat permanent support structres and may be planning to leave them in place after January…at least it appears so!

Anyway, if you missed this years Feria de Las Flores,  you may want to start making plans to attend next years event.  Reserve rooms well in advance as almost everything was full.  One reader PM’d me on August 7th (2 days in advance of the Feria) and asked if I could help him find a 3 bedroom apartment for him and his friends.  After picking myself up off the floor from laughing, I did try 3 of the largest rental agencies in town only to listen to them laughing at me when I inquired. I am not sure where the guy finally found a place to stay or if he just cancelled his trip.  I’ll bet he has reservations made for next year already though!

 

MTG

Cabalgata 2009

Yesterdays Cabalgata was nothing short of spectacular.  The weather was excellent, sunny with just a few clouds which helped keep it a little cooler.  I heard they set another record with almost 7,500 participants but have not seen any data to support that claim.  There sure were a lot of participants though.

We had a very good vantage point for viewing at the on ramp to the Aguatala Rd.  Because of the on-ramp position in the parade, it became a sort of staging area for the procession to stretch out.  It also afforded us some great photo opportunities as the riders waited for the parade to unfold.

 A friend at First American Realty Medellin set up a 14X17 tarp with about 30 plastic chairs available.  Plenty of beer, rum, Guaro and the secret Paisa Punch was enjoyed by all.  We also had some simple burgers and hotdogs along with some chips and dips.

Riders of all ages participate in the annual Cabalgata and the Paisa ladies don their best (and sometimes skimpiest) riding attire.  It becomes something of a fashion show in it’s own right!

 

This was our third Cabalgata and I think the only way to have more fun would be to participate in it!  We might just do that next year….!

 

A YouTube video is in the works with photos from yesterdays parade but for today, we are off to the Fonda display along the riverfront!

Colombia Moda and Feria de Las Flores 2009

The City of Medellin is abuzz in anticipation of this years Colombia Moda and Feria de Las Flores.  Hotels and apartments are filling or full, many new faces are appearing in local restaurants and nightclubs.  Most stores are stocking up on beverages and snacks.  The street vendors have packed in extra provisions and products in anticipation of record crowds for this years events.

The local people are filled with excitement over this annual event and many are scheduling out the parties they will attend on a daily basis.  Tickets to Colombiamoda events are as hard as hens teeth to come by and many are fetching premium prices for the most desireable shows.  I know one gentleman who paid $250 USD for a ticket to the Leonisa fashion show.

Decide early where you want to meet with your friends and send someone early to hold your spot for Cabalgata on Saturday August 1st.  The parade usually starts around 2:00PM and can last well past midnight.  Stock up early on your refreshments and snacks.  Last year, Carrefour on the Auto Pista sold out of many libations by early evening.

 

If this is your first Cabalgata, you will return home with stories about an event that your friends, relatives and neighbors will just not understand.  Take photos and/or videos and let them do your talking because you will not be able to describe it adequately. Bring a folding chair or be prepared to sit on the ground, curb or stand for long periods of time.  Be prepared for loud music all along the 28KM parade route.  As the parade unfolds into the early afternoon, the Paisas become very festive (and most will be well into a bottle or two of rum or Aguardiente), dancing will break out as well as raucous partying.

We will be taking videos and photos and will post them on the MTG website and YouTube for your viewing pleasure.  If you can’t make this years Festival of Flowers, start making plans now for next years event so you can be a part of one of the most incredible 10 days of partyingin all of South America.  Medellins Colombiamoda and Feria de Las Flores!

Paisas and Pepper

Paisa food has been well documented as being rather bland.  With the exception of Salt (and lots of it), Paisas do not use a lot of other spices in their food preparation, especially pepper!!! For most Paisas, pepper is considered too hot and spicy.  Even in most restaurants, you will not see pepper on the table and must ask for it if you want it.  Don’t even consider putting pepper on eggs, potatoes or any other dish that you are preparing because it will not be acceptable (again, to most Paisas). We even know ex-pats that carry their own pepper into restaurants.

Now, this anti spices custom extends well beyone pepper.  I have seen Paisas turn up their nose at regular, old, out of the can Hunts spagetti sauce (as being too spicy).  If you order Italian in most restaurants, you will find it devoid of much if any red sauce of any kind but full of cheese.  Same with their pizzas.  They even turn up their noses at Oregano as being too spicy.

 

Not sure where this “anti spice” conundrum came from in their past history and culture but can you inagine trying to introduce something like Thai peppers?  Most of the grocery stores will have hot sauce/tobasco on the shelves for the few Paisas that like a little spice in their foods but you will not find many Paisa households that have it in their refrigerators.

Now, pass the pepper for my scrambled eggs.  It is time to get this day started.