A large 10 day event like Feria de Las flores attracts visitors and tourists from all over the world. Coupled with the fact that Colombiamoda arranged it’s ending to coincide with the beginning of the Feria and you already had a city full of foreign guests.
I was speaking with a friend who told me he got his pocket picked at Cabalgata (the annual horse parade) but thankfully they only got a few thousand pesos. His friend had warned him to hide his big stash of cash in a zippered pocket. During the conversation, a girl piped in and said she had her cell phone stolen out of her zippered purse. Within minutes, two other people related similar incidents of having money or cell phones stolen by pickpockets.
Well, I have always preached being cautious in Medellin. Not wearing flashy jewlery, not carrying large sums of cash, holding onto your items, backpacks, cell phones etc (especially near El Centro).
So, the day of Feria de Los Silliteros (Flower carriers parade) came and I was looking forward to seeing this event for my first time. We decided to go to Plaza Mayor where we could see the ending of the parade and where the judging an reviewing stands were located. Seems every other Paisa had similar ideas as the crowd was about 100 deep and 300-400 yards long in both directions on both sides of the street. We began to punch our way forward like every other person there in hopes of getting close enough for some photos and video. At one point we got into a rip tide of people trying to get out and people trying to push forward and got squeezed pretty hard. I pulled away and immediately knew I had been pick pocketed. Sure enough, even though I had it in my front pants pocket of some pretty tight jeans, the cell phone was gone. I didn’t get too upset but knew it was going to be a lot of work replacing all the numbers I had stored in my SIM chip. My friend immediately tried to call my number to see if we could hear it ring closeby but alas, they had already turned it off and it went straight to message. I was just amazed at how quickly and easily they had taken it. I usually have trouble fishing my phone out of my pocket when it is my own hand going in after it!
So, we re-grouped and walked down the Calle a ways, looking for another vantage point where we might get a closer glimpse of the parade. We saw a spot below a passover and the crowd looked pretty manageable. Armed with my wallet in my left pocket (secured by my left hand inside the pocket) and my shoulder valise tightly pressed over my right pocket, we started making our way towards the crowd. At one point, my date found an opening and made a beeline for an open space on the street. I was right behind her until a kid got separated from his father, the father trying desperately to retrieve him and again a sudden surge of people going in both directions squeezed me. But, I was secure. I had my wallet in my hands and my valise firmly snuggled over my other pocket….or so I thought1 Yep! Got about 24,000 COP. I never felt a thing. These guys were pros!
We backed out of the crowd onto a nearby sidewalk. My date explained how many proessional pickpockets from all over Colombia came to Feria de Las Flores because of the huge crowds and large number of foreign tourists. As we were talking, the police arrested two female pickpockets that had been caught by the victim. Neither were my thieves. I still felt a small elation that some were being caught.
I was convinced and wanted no more of this encounter (or losses) so we left. We went home and watched the Feria on live TV and even filmed a bit of it. Wish it could have been live and next year, we will find a vantage point in a less crowded area or in reserved grandstand seating.
The next day, all my friends were aghast when I told them the story. I was out a cell phone and 24K pesos. As we sat in our favorite coffee restaurant in Parque Lleras recanting the experience, two more people at a nearby table were telling us of their experience of being pickpocketed the previous day. As we listened intently, I looked to my left to check on my valise and guess what…..It was gone! I couldn’t believe it. It was in a chair 6 inches from my left leg. It was in plain sight of my peripherial vision and my friends direct line of sight. It was in plain view of our neighbors telling the story. Only 1 person passed between us during the entire conversation. These people are too good. The police were not much help even after we described the only person that moved between us.
This time, it was a little more costly;
A 3CCD LCD Digital Video Camera; 7 Megapixel Sony Point and shoot camera, house keys (requiring us to change our locks) office keys, (requiring us to change 12 locks), a receipt book for business expenses (which I will never remember them all), business cards of clients and vendors, 2 calculator’s, tape measure, Cross Pen and Pencil set and various other things. I lost some irreplaceable video (until next year) and photos.
The police explained there were many professional thieves in Medellin for Feria de Las Flores and as much as they tried to protect citizens, these are experts and they are very fast, have a network of accomplices that move any stolen merchandise very quickly.
What can you do? It does no good to get mad. It is gone! You cannot find it. It can be replaced.
Will I go to Feria de Las Flores next year? You bet I will but will have more secure observation points. I may even hire a security guy for the days of the parades to be my wingman. A big guy that nobody will push around. I will have zippered pockets, not carry much money, will tie down my camera bag inside any restaurant and just be a little more cautious.
Has the experience made me negative about Medellin? Not one little bit! These are professional thieves that come here from all over Colombia to prey on the citizens and visitos that want to participate in the largest annual event of the city.
Viva Medellin but beware and very cautious with your valuables when you are in large crowds during Ferias. These theives are very, very good!