A group of friends had been planning to visit Santa Fe De Antioquia for several months but it seemed like everytime we made plans, something would rear it ugly head to step in the way and prevent it.
Finally, last weekend, we had solid plans in place, a gorgeous Medellin Sunday and it looked like our goal of visiting Santa Fe was going to come to fruition.
Our dates were supposed to meet us at 12:00 “sharp” in our favorite coffee bar, Le Bon, in Parke Lleras. Well, as is the Paisa way, at 12:30 we called and found they were still sleeping. We were a little angered and they agreed to meet us at 1:00 (but actually showed up at 1:30)
This was going to cut into our day as Santa Fe is about a 1.5 hour drive from Medellin. We took off and stopped to get a map and something to drink. No map but a couple of drinks and snacks made their way into our shopping basket. Making our way up the windy mountain 2 land roads out Ave 80, there was enough traffic to keep us well below the 60Km per hour speed limit. Once attaining the top of the mountain, we were presented with some of the most idyllic scenery one can imagine. Huge mountains rivaling the heights of the rockies but covered with emerald green foilage and dipping down into deep valleys criss crossed with rivers and streams. Several sections of the 4 lane highway had been buried in mudslides (sometimes 100’s of feet deep) which further slowed our advance due to 2 lane slow downs.
Traversing the 7Km long tunnel through the mountain (cost $10,400 pesos one way) was a unique experience and a testament to the engineering skills of the local Colombian people.
Naturally, when you make a trip like this, an occasional potty break is in order. We stopped at Don Pedros #2 planning to take a break and re-fuel our meager provisions. It turned into a full meal deal lunch break. The food was excellent, cooked to perfection and very reasonably priced. About $30 for 4 people including a round of beers and a round to go (except our driver who was drinking a coke).
As we entered San Jeronimo, we were quickly diverted to a detour due to a massive rock and mud slide up ahead. As it turns, this was a delightful bypass as it afforded us a view of the “Old Highway” that used to serve Santa Fe from San Jeronimo. Fincas, pousadas, small hotels and hostels lined the road. All excellently maintained, hedges well groomed and tranquil settings amongst the trees and lakes that dot this area of Colombia. Small vendor stalls loaded with fruits, vegetables, local crafts and sweets take you back in time to an era a hundred years ago.
As you approah the Puente Occidente (West Bridge) that is the main entry point to Santa Fe you suddenly realize you are about to be taken back in time. This bridge was one of the first ever suspension bridges in the world and quite possibly the first in South America. Cars naturally slow down as they cross the bridge, not because of safety reasons but to view the rapidly flowing Cauca River below.
When you reach the other side, you are immediately taken back in time to a period of colonial architecture complete with cobble stoned streets, stucco houses and terra cotta roofs. Santa Fe has been so well conserved in this period of architecture that in 1960, it was declared a Colombian National Monument.
Finding a parking space along the many intertwined streets was simple and as we exited the car and headed for the town square, we knew we were in for a treat. After snapping way too few photos and taking a little bit of video, we walked the square taking in all the delightful local treats, arts and crafts and just intermingling with the people in general. We found them to be very friendly, very courious at having a couple of gringos visiting their town, willing to go out of their way to make sure we had a pleasant experience. We finally settled into a small outdoor resturant to have some refreshments. Naturally, the local national drink Ron Medellin Rum was our order of choice (driver still only drinking coca cola). We wiled away several hours taking in the scenery and sights. Doing a lot of people watching it became clear that Sunday was family day. While Americans are holed up inside their homes watching sporting events, or visiting the beaches, lakes and parks in small groups, these people are actually out visiting with friends, family, neighbors and making a day of relaxation amongst the whole townspeople.
Alas, due to our late departure, the setting sun became more ominent and we wanted to get a start back over the mountain before it got too dark. Well, best laid plans!
Just ourside of San Jeronimo, fueled by the afternoons beverages, the ladies had to make a potty stop. That turned into a meal at a roadside fonda clled Acacias. Folks, absolutely some of the finest smoked ribs (beef and pork), chicken and steaks I have ever tasted. I got a combination protion to take home with me.
The rest of the drive home was uneventful and we arrived safely at our apartment. Everyone was drowsey but had a very enjoyable day in Santa Fe De Antioquia.
Normally a shutter bug photog at heart, I realized I had only taken a few photos and a few minutes of videos even though they were within grasp of my hands most of the day. I guess the newness and uniqueness of visiting Santa Fe caused me to forget one of my ultimate goals of going there. Oh well, guess another trip is in the near future to get more media on this delightful old city 80 Km from Medellin.
Worth a day of your vacation to visit. You can rent a car or taxi by the hour to make the trip. Enjoy and share your experiences.
Medellin Travel Guide.