Medellintravelguide's Weblog

Halloween in Medellin-Mangos

medellintravelguide — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 14:07:29 +0000

In Spain and Mexico, October 31st is regarded as Day of the Dead. In Colombia, Day of the Dead is celebrated on Nov. 30th. On October 31st, the Paisas turn out in their finest (and sometimes very elaborate) costumes and party the night away….well, actually, they start partying on October 30th and usually don’t stop until the AM of Nov. 1st.

“So, what do you want to do for Halloween?” I asked my lovely wife! “Let’s go toMangos”, was her reply!

Now, I am not a big Mangos fan. I believe it is a place for everyone to experience at least once when they visit Medellin just to say they have been there. The locals love the place and some save for months to go there or will willingly accept an invitation if offered. In my opinion, it is way over rated and wayyyyyy overpriced…but a fun experience none the less!

OK, so we need to find costumes. We try several costume stores and although many were very original, nothing was suiting her tastes or budget. So, off to El Centro with another couple and some pesos in our pockets. After the first hour, my buddy and I decided to just let them shop and we would find a place to have coffee for an hour or so.

We parked our behinds at the Cafe Botero adjacent to the Museo de Antioquia and observed the throngs of people parading around in costumes and the costume contests taking place. Some of these Paisas probably spent weeks custom making some of the costumes for themselves and their kids. Many were quite impresive.

We probably should have stayed home because it was 6 hours later before the girls showed up with their coveted costumes….which we could not see until that evening….LOL

We were supposed to meet friends outside at 9:30 so we could get inside early and reserve a table. Not going to happen this evening. It was more like 11 PM when we finally left. We took a taxi because we knew we were going to be drinking and didn’t want to drive.

We were greeted by a line about 50 yards long and it took almost 1/2 hour to get through security and pay our 35,000 cover charge.

The place was packed and were we ever glad our friend had managed to get a couple of tables. Costumes like you can not imagine and as usual, the Paisa ladies were happily showing off their god given (and many times enhanced) assets.

The place rocked all night and everyone was partying hearty. At 4:00AM I went outside for a smoke break and noticed a lot of people beginning to leave. I thought this might be a good time to call it a night but that was not going to happen.

At 7AM, we finally coaxed the girls into leaving but not before one last beer outside after a 1.75ML (carafe) of Auguardiente inside. (it is a local favorite drink similar to Sambuca in taste also referrrd to as Guaro).

The night:

170,000 COP for costume and accessories (not bad)

70,000COP cover

240,000 COP for a bottle of Guaro

Taxis to and from Mangos 25,000

A Halloween memory from Mangos…priceless

We managed a few photos for your viewing pleasure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojBiNRF_Ais

MTG

“Why would you want to live in the jungles”

medellintravelguide — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 19:41:21 +0000

I almost fell out of my chair laughing as I explained that Medellin Colombia was a very cosmopolitan city with malls to rival any city in the US.

I play on-line poker (for play money only…for now anyway…LOL). I was chatting with another player the other day while sitting out a hand and she told me she lived in Ohio. I told her I lived in Medellin Colombia.

Her response was, “why would you want to live in the jungle”

So typical of the Hollywood stereotypical perspective that many have of cities in Colombia that I just had to laugh. I started off by telling her it was great to take my donkey and cart to the market everyday because we didn’t have refrigeration and needed to buy fresh meats and produce daily. I also told her there was no gasoline involved only grass and some occasional hay.

She became intrigued when I told her we had no electricity or running water and only had a generator to watch DVD’s on occasion.

Anothe player piped in and told me to cut the BS as he had visited MDE and knew differently.

I then invited her to visit the web site www.medellintravelguide.com to get a better feel for the quality of life here and to see what a modern city it really is.

She e-mailed me the next day that she had no idea it was such a beautiful place and so modern. Said she might even like to visit someday and were we serious about the prices for cosmetic surgery. I think she has a breast augmentation in mind.

Jungles? Yes, Colombia has lot’s of jungles but Medellin is not in one of them….!

Medellin Los Alumbrados in Preparation

medellintravelguide — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:52:57 +0000

This year the mayors office started very early preparing for this years Los Alumbrados. Not many were sure why the preparations were starting in early August but it was apparent something big was hapening.

It started with the installations of huge green water drums all along the river. The workers were hacking their way through the rocks and dirt that line the river placing these 2-5 hundred gallon water containers and submersing them below ground. Next came the installation of all new metal support structures across the river. This is not an unusual sight but the structures themselves were. Mush more durable, stronger and they looked to have a plan of permanence about them. They were being built to support something very, very heavy. Next came the installation of tan tarp like material below the support structures.

My curosity was piqued so I began asking around if anybody knew what was going on with this years Los Alumbrados? The Mayors office finally announced that this years theme was going to be a water theme and all the tanks and support structures were being erected to pump water. He also promised that this years Los Alumbrados would be the most spectacular in history.

Having attended 4 Los Alumbrados, I find that difficult to believe but if the installations are any indication of what is to come, it will surely be a spectacle to behold.

Make your plans early as accommodations fill up fast and expect to pay a minimum of a 20% surcharge from the first of December until January 15th. Oh, and bring your cameras!

52nd Annual Feria de Las Flores is in the history books

medellintravelguide — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 14:24:55 +0000

It was another excellent 10 day Feria de Las Flores in Medellin for 2009. The weather could not have been better (well, maybe a little cooler) with sunny days and near cloudless skies, the locals and visitors turned out in record numbers to witness the many events.

Since the parades stretch out over many kilometers it is a good idea to plan in advance where you wish to view each event. Location, location, location cannot be stressed enough and the locals all have their favorite viewing venues. No mater where you go, expect crowds 5-10 deep lining the roads along the parade routes.

A friend at First American Realty Medellin hosted a party for Cabalgata with a covered tent, food, drinks, seating and a good location along the parade route. The location was secured the night before with people actually sleeping there amongst the roped off area. You tube video of cabalgata: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwQJw_tliyQ

The Desfile de Silliteros was another hit this year with over 260 Flower Carriers participating along with numerous bands, dance troupes and entertainers.

We also had a primo location along Ave. 70 for the antique auto parade. Some very impressive restored antique and classic autos participated. Lots of muscle cars from the 50’s and 60’s and many of the participants dressed in period clothing of the auto they were driving. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ7TGPE__C4

On the final Sunday, we accidentally got to watch the Chiva Parade as we got stuck in traffic in a taxi. Next year, we will plan to attend this part of the festivities. It looked like a lot of fun.

So, now what to do after the largest annual event in Medellin comes to a close? Well, here it is, Mid August and they have already started installing the support structures for Los Alumbrados (the annual Christmas lighting) along the river. It does appear that they are installing some more somewhat permanent support structres and may be planning to leave them in place after January…at least it appears so!

Anyway, if you missed this years Feria de Las Flores, you may want to start making plans to attend next years event. Reserve rooms well in advance as almost everything was full. One reader PM’d me on August 7th (2 days in advance of the Feria) and asked if I could help him find a 3 bedroom apartment for him and his friends. After picking myself up off the floor from laughing, I did try 3 of the largest rental agencies in town only to listen to them laughing at me when I inquired. I am not sure where the guy finally found a place to stay or if he just cancelled his trip. I’ll bet he has reservations made for next year already though!

MTG

Cabalgata 2009

medellintravelguide — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 20:42:01 +0000

Yesterdays Cabalgata was nothing short of spectacular. The weather was excellent, sunny with just a few clouds which helped keep it a little cooler. I heard they set another record with almost 7,500 participants but have not seen any data to support that claim. There sure were a lot of participants though.

We had a very good vantage point for viewing at the on ramp to the Aguatala Rd. Because of the on-ramp position in the parade, it became a sort of staging area for the procession to stretch out. It also afforded us some great photo opportunities as the riders waited for the parade to unfold.

A friend at First American Realty Medellin set up a 14X17 tarp with about 30 plastic chairs available. Plenty of beer, rum, Guaro and the secret Paisa Punch was enjoyed by all. We also had some simple burgers and hotdogs along with some chips and dips.

Riders of all ages participate in the annual Cabalgata and the Paisa ladies don their best (and sometimes skimpiest) riding attire. It becomes something of a fashion show in it’s own right!

This was our third Cabalgata and I think the only way to have more fun would be to participate in it! We might just do that next year….!

A YouTube video is in the works with photos from yesterdays parade but for today, we are off to the Fonda display along the riverfront!

Colombia Moda and Feria de Las Flores 2009

medellintravelguide — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:26:54 +0000

The City of Medellin is abuzz in anticipation of this years Colombia Moda and Feria de Las Flores. Hotels and apartments are filling or full, many new faces are appearing in local restaurants and nightclubs. Most stores are stocking up on beverages and snacks. The street vendors have packed in extra provisions and products in anticipation of record crowds for this years events.

The local people are filled with excitement over this annual event and many are scheduling out the parties they will attend on a daily basis. Tickets to Colombiamoda events are as hard as hens teeth to come by and many are fetching premium prices for the most desireable shows. I know one gentleman who paid $250 USD for a ticket to the Leonisa fashion show.

Decide early where you want to meet with your friends and send someone early to hold your spot for Cabalgata on Saturday August 1st. The parade usually starts around 2:00PM and can last well past midnight. Stock up early on your refreshments and snacks. Last year, Carrefour on the Auto Pista sold out of many libations by early evening.

If this is your first Cabalgata, you will return home with stories about an event that your friends, relatives and neighbors will just not understand. Take photos and/or videos and let them do your talking because you will not be able to describe it adequately. Bring a folding chair or be prepared to sit on the ground, curb or stand for long periods of time. Be prepared for loud music all along the 28KM parade route. As the parade unfolds into the early afternoon, the Paisas become very festive (and most will be well into a bottle or two of rum or Aguardiente), dancing will break out as well as raucous partying.

We will be taking videos and photos and will post them on the MTG website and YouTube for your viewing pleasure. If you can’t make this years Festival of Flowers, start making plans now for next years event so you can be a part of one of the most incredible 10 days of partyingin all of South America. Medellins Colombiamoda and Feria de Las Flores!

Paisas and Pepper

medellintravelguide — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 15:55:03 +0000

Paisa food has been well documented as being rather bland. With the exception of Salt (and lots of it), Paisas do not use a lot of other spices in their food preparation, especially pepper!!! For most Paisas, pepper is considered too hot and spicy. Even in most restaurants, you will not see pepper on the table and must ask for it if you want it. Don’t even consider putting pepper on eggs, potatoes or any other dish that you are preparing because it will not be acceptable (again, to most Paisas). We even know ex-pats that carry their own pepper into restaurants.

Now, this anti spices custom extends well beyone pepper. I have seen Paisas turn up their nose at regular, old, out of the can Hunts spagetti sauce (as being too spicy). If you order Italian in most restaurants, you will find it devoid of much if any red sauce of any kind but full of cheese. Same with their pizzas. They even turn up their noses at Oregano as being too spicy.

Not sure where this “anti spice” conundrum came from in their past history and culture but can you inagine trying to introduce something like Thai peppers? Most of the grocery stores will have hot sauce/tobasco on the shelves for the few Paisas that like a little spice in their foods but you will not find many Paisa households that have it in their refrigerators.

Now, pass the pepper for my scrambled eggs. It is time to get this day started.

Colombian Money

medellintravelguide — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 12:22:45 +0000

The official Colombian money is the Colombian Peso.

Notes come in Denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000 20,000 and 50,000;

Coins come in 20, 50,100, 200 and 500 peso denominations;

If you would like to view the obverse and reverse of the current Colombian Peso notes and coins and learn about the people whose faces grace the currency go to:

www.medellintravelguide.com/medellin_money.html

There is also a link to a currency converter with current exchange rates.

Medellin Colombia Culture Gram

medellintravelguide — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 00:58:02 +0000

No matter where you travel in the world, you will find different local customs that are good to know about before you travel there. Here are just a few and we will add to them from time to time.

Medellin Culture and Respect (Culture Gram)

Just as in many Latin countries, the Paisas are frequently late. They may tell you 7:00PM but do not expect to see them until 7:30 to 7:45. No matter how much you complain, you will not change their culture so just get used to it. It can be very frustrating to a westerner. To the locals, it is no importa!

In a business meeting, do not be surprised if the first 15 to 30 minutes involves talking about family, sports, events in the city and other small talk before business subjects are discussed.

Generally avoid discussing politics or the present civil war in public, except with well known acquaintances or relatives that have your trust and confidence. In general, nobody will react with violence to different opinions, but the hearts of Colombians suffer great pain remembering all the victims of the political and narcotics wars of the past and current conflict.

Accordingly, do not approach these subjects in your first conversation with a Colombian. Even if you want to demonstrate that you are informed and knowledgeable about the country’s main issues, most Colombians will find it rude if your first association of the country is with drugs, war, or corruption (they are clearly aware of their country’s bad reputation. Most likely they will answer with “Colombia has many more wonderful things besides that”.

Always say “please” (“Por favor” or “Hagame el favor”) and “thank you” (“muchas gracias”) for anything, to anyone. Colombians tend to be very polite and formal, and explicitly good manners win the approval of those around you. When you meet someone for the first time express (con mucho gusto) or (mucho gusto en conocerte). If they say this to you first respond (igualmente) “same here”! If they enter your home or apartment you should expect to offer something to drink or eat. If you visit them in their home, expect to be offered a meal.

Despite being a formal people, Colombians tend to speak their minds and opinions quite freely. They are also not shy of asking questions about health, salary or social status. These topics could seem offensive to some or considered personal information. Always downplay your wealth (if you are wealthy) and that you have to work for a living.

Like many Americans, Colombians dislike arguing. If you get involved in an argument with a Colombian person, keep yourself cool and express yourself with calm and reason. Colombians admire people with such composure. In many cases just brush it off with a “no importa” and move on with having fun.

Most Colombians are laid back regarding race issues, since white or creole persons blend naturally with natives and Afro Colombians in everyday life (education, living, politics, marriage). So the word “negro” can be used regardless of who’s saying it, or who is being referred to in this way. You can hear expressions like “negrito” or “mi negro” in a restaurant or on the street. You could hear someone calling “negra” or gorda (fat) to a woman, regardless of the race of the person or her physical size. And in general, Afro Colombians don’t find it offensive, as they are simply variations on the Spanish word for “black”. But remember, even if you’re not a tourist, when you use the word “Negro”, try not to imply any rude tones or use the word in a derogatory way, because that will mean that you’re using it in a racist way.

Differences between British persons, white U.S citizens or northern Europeans are not perceived by most Colombians. Hence, you can expect to be called “gringo” even if you are, Russian, German or Australian. Don’t let this offend you as a non Spanish speaking visitor.

The same statement could be made regarding Asian visitors. Due to the fact that the most common and familiar Asian ethnicity in Colombia is Chinese, even though there are few Chinese travelers in Colombia. Often times, visitors from the Pacific Rim and the Far East such as Korea, Japan, Thailand, Malaysia and others, are considered the same race. Hence, the expression “Chino” for males and “China” for women (Chinese in either case) to all people coming from an Asian country, is frequently heard. If this is your case, trying to point out your nationality and cultural background will be difficult. Just pass by this perception and avoid uncomfortable situations. This will allow you get in touch with the warmth and friendliness of Colombian people. (Many times the Colombians refer to children as chinos, in a casual sense.)

Colombians have a very unusual and interesting mannerism of pointing to objects with their mouths. It is because pointing to a person with a finger is considered a rude gesture.

Colombians (man to woman and woman to man) generally greet each other by kissing each other on the cheek once. It’s actually not real kissing but more like just touching the other person’s cheek with your cheek, usually the right one. Depending on the degree of familiarity this may be accompanied by a hug or just a pat on the back. Depending on the occasion this kind of greeting is also used when two people are introduced. The alternative on more formal occasions is a hand shake. Men shake each others hands and a pat on the back or shoulder is not uncommon.

So don’t be afraid that the people are trying to sexually harass you or hit on you, and you’ll quickly learn to like this custom.

Regarding table manners, a lot of the more traditional elder Colombians hate it when a guest leaves uneaten food on a plate. If you leave food on a plate in a restaurant, the manager may approach you and ask if something is wrong with the food! This sometimes can be uncomfortable to visitors due to some of the more “exotic” local food that can be served. However, you can explain your lack of knowledge regarding certain foods and they will understand. You will also need to learn the fine art of eating slowly or you will find yourself finished with your meal while your Colombian counterpart has just begun. They can take an hour or more to finish a meal. Remember, they all have 2 hour lunch breaks.

Colombians love to dance. It’s part of their cultural history. As in other Central and South American countries, it’s very common to hear and feel rhythmic music such as salsa, merengue, cumbia or reggaeton. Anyone will be glad to teach you how to dance, and they will not expect you to do it correctly, since they have been practicing every weekend for all their lives. Colombian night life goes on mostly about dancing. Discos where people sit or stand are rare. In Medellin, the nightlife is very active Thursday through Saturday nights. Sundays are generally family days (although many clubs and discos are open on Sunday night) and Monday through Wednesdays are spent building up to the next weekend. You will see more locals in clubs around paydays, (usually the 1^{st and 15th of the month).}

When dancing, despite what you might think of all the sensual movements of the men and women, people just enjoy music and dancing and it is not normally used for sexual encounters or as sexual signs. You could find salsa at childrens “piñata” parties, or even at parties for older people. North Americans and Europeans could find this odd or confusing because of their experience with salsa and Latin rhythms in their countries. A Colombian dancing innocently could be easily misinterpreted. In general, Colombian women and men are not “easy” just because of the way they dance. It is applied in the same way as in Brazil where an almost naked “garota” dancing the samba during carnival is not inviting you to have sex with her but inviting you to enjoy, to be happy, to join to the celebration, to join the exuberant lack of inhibition and to be part of a free life (sort of a ritual thing imprinted in the Latin American culture).

Regarding religion, most Colombians are Catholic, and it’s important to them to keep certain ceremonies and respect for all things related to religion. You can visit great architectural churches and even go inside, but taking pictures may be considered disrespectful. Ask first. Young people are more open to learning about other religions and debate on this subject.

Colombians are very conservative about homosexual issues, so it’s uncommon to find a male couple holding hands or kissing in the street. Girls will walk together arm in arm but it is considered a sign of friendship and not a lesbian couple. There are many gays and lesbians as well as transvestites in Medellin and other large cities but it is not out in the open so much. As a general rule, socially “liberal” Colombians are roughly the equivalent of a socially “conservative” Western Europeans, so you can expect older Colombians to have quite stringent values.

Family is very important in the Colombian culture. Many Saturdays and most Sundays are regarded as family days where they get together, eat, drink, talk and socialize. The younger children receive a lot of attention but are taught respect for elders at a very early age.

Colombians use their hands to show the height of people and animals in a different way. Avoid using your hand with the palm facing down to describe the height of another person; it is used for animals and may be insulting. If you must describe the height of another person, use your hand with the palm facing inward or perpendicular to the street/sidewalk.

Many times you will see people with names like Rodrigo Garcia Ramirez but they go by Rodrigo Garcia. The last name is usually their mother’s maiden name. Do not be surprised if your name is James Robert Williams if they call you James Robert. They also do not use nick names like Bill for William, Bob for Robert, Dick for Richard etc. They may have family and close friend “pet names” but will use their full names when meeting a stranger.

Always remember, these people are not used to seeing a lot of tourists or foreigners. Do not take it offensively if you catch them staring at you. The best response is a smile and an hola, buenas dias, buenas tardes or buenas noches. You will be surprised how quickly they warm to your visit to their city.

Please do not be the Ugly American in Medellin. A little patience, a lot of smiles, a willingness to try new things, an attempt to communicate with them in Spanish, an appreciation for their heritage and culture, joining them in their party nightlife atmosphere and respecting their customs will go a long way to making your visit more enjoyable.

Meeting the Family. If a Paisa girl takes you to meet her family and more than the immediate family (aunts, uncles, grandparents, cousins etc) are present, you are as good as announcing your engagement. BEWARE!

The local modismos or idomas will challenge your Spanish. In the US, when we are kidding someone we say, “I am just pulling your leg.” Here they say, “I am just pulling your hair.” (Yo estoy tomando su pelo). Don’t be afraid to say, “como”, in order to get clarification.

Don’t be surprised if a Paisa lets you pick up a tab and doesn’t thank you or even offer to pay their portion even if they invited you in the first place. In fact, don’t be surprised if a Paisa shows up somewhere without any money period. It is amazing how they never have any money except when it comes to partying. They always seem to find a way to make a Rumba happen!

You will never see a woman put her purse on the floor. It is considered bad luck. It is also considered bad luck to store anything under a bed.

Men will rarely walk with their hands in their pockets.

You will rarely see a child pitching a fit in a store, see parents yelling at or disciplining their children in public. They are normally very well behaved!

Using Medellin ATM’s

medellintravelguide — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:55:58 +0000

Planning to use your ATM card when you visit Medellin? You will get better exchange rates than changing cash or travelers checks at a cambio!

There are convenient ATM’s (called ATH’s in Medellin) all over Medellin. In Banks, Malls, Grocery Stores, Casinos, Restaurants and more. Most of them support the more popular networks like Cirrus, Plus, Maestro, MasterCard and many others. Most also have an English and Spanish language option.

Different ATMs have different per transaction limits of usually 400,000-500,000 COP. You can do multiple transactions up to the daily limit allowed by your bank.

A few hints on using ATM’s in Medellin;

Only withdraw what you will need on a daily basis;

Only carry 1 or 2 ATM/Debit/Credit Cards

Only make withdrawls from ATM’s in well lighted areas and preferably places with on site security;

Keep your paper receipt;

Count your money; Check your balance on line to make sure only one transaction occurred.

Make sure that your transaction has ended and the machine is ready for the next customer….not asking you if you want another transaction!